SUPIMA Cotton Shares Its Origins, Traits, Practices For Sustainability And Future Hurdles
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By Cassell Ferere originally published on Forbes.com
SUPIMA cotton heralds itself as the epitome of luxury and sustainability within the cotton industry, with refined cotton fibers creating some of the most enduring textiles. Recognized for its superior quality and sustainability, traceable to the Gossypium Barbadense species, this cotton variety, sometimes referred to as “tree wool,” has roots that can be linked to the biologists' discovery during the Christopher Columbus era, studying the plant mainly in the Caribbean during the 1400s.
Historically, it became the foundation for premium kinds of cotton cultivated in the Americas, such as the Pima, Sea Island, and Egyptian varieties, which have grown into the hallmark of luxury textiles. Over time, SUPIMA cotton, in particular, has come to represent the highest quality fibers with a commitment to environmental responsibility, driven by the demand for traceable and sustainable practices.
SUPIMA, which is predominantly grown in the deserts of California, with about 95% of its production exported, requires meticulous water management. In this dry environment, water is one of the most crucial resources for cotton farming. Recognizing the challenges of growing such water-intensive crops, California has implemented the Sustainable Groundwater Management Act (SIGMA), regulating water usage and preserving the state’s water resources.
With a high water consumption factored in the cultivation of Pima cotton, sustainable water practices are paramount. For example, cotton plants, which are xerophytes, have adapted to survive in arid climates, but they still need large quantities of water. Farmers use advanced irrigation systems like drip irrigation to ensure that water is used efficiently, reducing the strain on California’s fragile aquifers. SIGMA is ensuring that this balance of water usage is maintained, protecting the environment while still enabling the production of the cotton crop.
SUPIMA cotton stands out from regular cotton with three defining qualities which are strength, softness, and vibrancy, making it a top-tier luxury fabric on the market. Known for its extra-long staple (ELS) fibers [about 1.5 inches long], SUPIMA cotton is significantly stronger, leading to fabrics that are more durable and resistant to fraying, tearing, or fading over time. This added strength also contributes to a smoother, softer texture, making SUPIMA garments exceptionally comfortable to wear against the skin.
Furthermore, SUPIMA cotton’s enhanced fiber structure holds dye more effectively, resulting in richer, more vibrant colors that stay true longer. Together, these traits make SUPIMA a preferred choice for those seeking both luxury and longevity in their clothing. Unlike regular cotton, which may fade over time, SUPIMA cotton maintains its vividness through multiple washes and extended wear.
Despite its luxurious reputation, SUPIMA cotton has faced significant challenges due to changes in climate and farming economics. This year is expected to be particularly dry for cotton yields, with the projected harvest for 2024 falling from 450,000 bales to 300,000-350,000 bales, these numbers were noted at the Supima Harvest Celebration held on October 23 to 25, 2024, at the 1 Hotel, West Hollywood, California. This is partly due to warmer weather conditions, which tend to reduce crop yields, and the increased costs of production, now averaging $2,500 per acre, up from just $800 in the 1980s.
Additionally, California’s cotton production has drastically reduced, shrinking from 1 million acres of fields to just a few hundred thousand today, with only 14 cotton gins remaining in operation.
The cost of water continues to rise, compounding the difficulties farmers face.
It takes about 157 gallons of water to produce a single cotton T-shirt, which is equivalent to filling 2.2 bathtubs. These water-intensive requirements place further strain on California’s already limited resources. However, through sustainable water management practices like drip irrigation and flood irrigation on level fields - a fun game of stair-stepping a sheet of water over land descending one foot of elevation for each mile - SUPIMA farmers are finding ways to minimize their environmental footprint. More naturally, groundwater recharge—allowing water to seep back into aquifers—ensures a renewable supply of this critical resource.
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