21 Questions: Photographer Marcus Leatherdale
Questions and by Joseph Benjamin
Marcus Leatherdale’s new published title Out Of The Shadows that showcases intimate shots of the 1980s “In Crowd”, such as – Madonna, Warhol, Tina Chow, Keith Haring, John Sex and International Chrysis. He is paying homage to a past generation of celebrities who were also his beloved friends. Each shot captures a fragment of the city's vibrant Bohemia spirit. Published by ACC Art Books.
We caught up with Marcus right before the release of his new book: Out Of The Shadows. Check the Q&A session to find out the details.
1. Where are you from?
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
2. Do you find photography to be therapeutic?
Anything is Therapeutic if you enjoy what you do …and I enjoy making photographs
3 Where did the inspiration come from to create the Out of the Shadows?
“I did not create “Out of the Shadows”…It was created as a copulation of almost 40 years of work in NYC. Each portrait was photographed singularly ..not with any intention of being a book. Dealers and collectors of my work persuaded me to rummage in my closets and dust off my NYC past.
Nostalgia is in these days.”
4. When did the bohemian spirit start in NYC?
"Bohemia to me, started in the 1960s with the Beat Generation and morphed into the Warhol Factory 70s and moved on to the East Village Art scene of 1980s."
5. How does fashion play a role in what you do?
"I was, am not a Fashion Photographer, so fashion did not play much of a role in what I do. That said, Issey Miyake commissioned me to photograph his clothing because he wanted an Art photographer to reflect his work not a fashion photographer. Larissa, The cover of the book .. and a few images of Warhol and Iman are from that collaboration so fashion I guess did finally play a part. Personally ,I was focused more on personal style not fashion design labels.."
6. Based on your experience, do you feel the fashion industry has become more commercial.
“More Commercial definitely. It seems to be totally about branding now.
I mean, baseball caps and trainers going for hundreds of dollars—Really?”
7. Tell us about your experience shooting iconic people in the entertainment industry. “When I photographed in NYC I was not thinking anyone was Iconic, we were just all friends. Yes Andy was a legend, I guess. I photographed him three times. First at the Factory, he sat on a black couch next to a stuffed penguin. We then had lunch with Kathy Hilton, Paris mother, Peter Beard and Cherly Tiegs. Then I photographed Andy at my Studio for Issey Miyake and finally at his last ConEd Factory, .as a Hidden Identity, seating next to a statue of Caligula. Both these images are in the book.”
8. How did the AIDS epidemic effect your generation and outlook on style and creativity?
"AIDS devastated my generation. It culled so many creative and amazing souls. I lost hundreds of irreplaceable friends. Imagine if all of these thousands of artists were alive today.."
9. Who are your favorite designers to work with?
"I only worked with Issey Miyake. Who was a dream to work with because he just let me do what I do."
10. Explain the 70's punk scene and the ideology behind the sense of fashion during this time.
"The 1970 Punk scene for me was in San Francisco. My crew was Penelope and the Avengers. Punk was my Mania..I lived for live gigs and POGOing."
11. Is there anything you would do differently?
"Of course there is always something one would do differently in retrospect. However, any change in the chain of events would alter the outcome, . I am OK with where I ended up. So no regrets!"
12. How do you stay balanced during this time in your life?
"Sascha, my beautiful Borzoi keeps me balanced. He is my guardian angel Avatar. He lives in the moment , as all animals do. So I stay as connected as possible to their wave length!"
13. When was your first magazine placement? How did you achieve this?
"My first publication was Search and Destroy in SF, .photographs of the Avengers. In NYC it was a centerfold in Soho weekly News which led to partnering with Stephen Saban who interviewed the downtown personalities and I shot the portraits for his weekly interviews.
14. Do you have any advice for aspiring photographers
"Aspiring photographers?Seems everyone is an aspiring photographer these days. What with the technology of Digital imagery, photography has become generic and pedestrianized just press the button and maybe read the manual Presto - Easy Stevie. That said if I was 18 now would I still put in all the effort of trial and error exposures negative development and perfecting the print? I took 10 years to cultivate my craft and vision"
15. Anything else you would like to share with us?
"So my advise is to stay focused and do not buy into the quick and easy route. It is harder than ever these days to be an individual. I actually have an online Art magazine called www.OMENmag.com where I showcase both analog and digital photographs."
16. How do you feel about this new wave of sustainability sweeping through the fashion industry?
"Sustainability is a great direction in all fields…not just fashion. I am a Vegan so I am all for sustaining the planet in general.."
17. In your opinion what's missing in the fashion industry? How has it changed since you started your journey?
"What is missing in Fashion today is basic good taste. It has been lost due to designers desperately trying to be reinvent and be different. Personally, almost of of it is unwearable."
18. Do you produce all the elements of your photo shoots?
"Yes I am a one man band. I shoot with negative film which I develop and Print myself. No retouching."
19. Whats the next chapter of your life?
"The latest chapter in my life has been India. I have been exclusively photographing in India since the 1990s.I have focused on the timeless traditions of India and more recently the Adivasi tribals. I want to capture this way of life before it evaporates into global society "
20. Who is your favorite personality to shoot?
"I do not really have any favorites. My photos are all my children However, I photographed Claudia Summers regularly . I would say she was my muse. Claudia wrote the amazing and insightful introduction to Out of the Shadows which helped show the relevance of my work in those day gone by."
21. How do you define your own style?
My style is simplicity, striped down. I do not want the viewer to have to wade through the process to connect to my vision. No retouching, no tricks always one light source like the Sun.”